Sages, synagogues, and seaside: Discovering Jewish history along the French Riviera

Nahum Schnitzer travels through Provence, France, exploring Jewish heritage sites. He visits Marseille, Avignon, Carpentras, and other towns, highlighting synagogues, kosher restaurants, and encounters with local Jews. The article covers the region's Jewish history, including the medieval 'Popes' Jews' and the still-active synagogue in Carpentras from 1367. Schnitzer reflects on antisemitism in France, noting he did not experience it personally but heard about it from locals. He emphasizes supporting local Jewish communities through tourism.

Nahum Schnitzer, an Israeli traveler, recounts a five-day journey through Provence, France, exploring Jewish history and heritage. The trip begins in Marseille, a city with 80,000 Jews and a monumental 19th-century synagogue on Rue Breteuil. The author visits kosher restaurants, including a delicatessen called Katzav, and notes the discreet nature of kosher signs. He then travels to Avignon, Carpentras, Cavaillon, and L'Isle sur la Sorgue, towns where Jews were permitted to live in the Middle Ages under papal protection. In Avignon, he visits the round neoclassical synagogue and meets Rabbi Chanan Levin, a Chabad emissary, who shows him photos of hostages from Gaza and explains the yellow ribbons still adorning the eternal lights. The author reflects on the region's Jewish intellectual heritage, mentioning figures like Gersonides. He also visits Carpentras, home to a still-active synagogue from 1367, renovated in Baroque style. Throughout the article, Schnitzer addresses the topic of antisemitism in France, stating he did not encounter it personally but heard about it from French Jews. He emphasizes the importance of visiting Jewish sites as a way to support local communities and show solidarity.